Tamlyn’s Insider Guide to Montagu

Tamlyn Ryan is the founder of Tamlyn Amber Wanderlust, a travel writing and photography blog. At this stage it focuses on Tamlyn’s adventures in and around Cape Town and the Western Cape. What originally started out as a Journalism assignment at university, soon became a place for her to share her favourite travel adventures, tips and reviews and passion for writing and photography. The blog now also features an exciting category, Guests’ Corner, which showcases guest interviews with top local and international travel bloggers and writers from across the globe.

5 things I love most about Montagu

  1. The natural surroundings, with the rural farmlands, historic monumental buildings, quiet streets, breathtaking Langeberg mountains and (compared to Cape Town) nonexistent
  2. The friendly, welcoming spirit that the people of Montagu, particularly the nearby farmers, possess.
  3. Definitely the local food… Especially when it comes to braais (otherwise known as the South African, improved version of a barbeque)! But Montagu is also deservedly famous for its dried fruit (I recommend the excellent Capedry factory shop) and marvellous muscadel wine – both of which I love!
  4. The Avalon Springs Resort, which is famous for its hot-water pools, enclosing mountains, quality hotel and adorable mountain chalets.
  5. The small mountain pass, Cogmanskloof Pass, and its well-loved, solid rock tunnel. (There’s an old English fort situated above it, which serves as another point of interest.) Cogmanskloof is famed for its gorgeous mountain scenery, rock climbing (at Legoland) and lastly, for the unfortunate way the pass has previously been closed for days at a time during Montagu’s former floods… But it definitely makes for one of the most memorable entrances to any town!

A few quirky/cool/fun things only locals know about

In Montagu, everybody either knows everybody else… or at least pretends to know them. But, jokes aside, it really is naturally friendly town, particularly when you compare to it most other places in South Africa. Here, people will still stop for a chat (usually in the middle of the road or at the tills…), sincerely ask how you are or give a brisk ‘nod’ in greeting. So if you visit Montagu and a bunch of people starting nodding earnestly at you… don’t be alarmed, it’s just a polite greeting.

Top travel tip: On Friday afternoons and Saturdays the town and shops can get extremely busy, while on Sundays (especially after church) most of the town feels on lockdown… So plan your trips and meals in Montagu carefully to avoid any disappointment.

The least touristy thing to do in Montagu

Spending an afternoon ‘shop hopping’… It can be quite boring but only the locals seem to know to visit both the SPAR and Shoprite (and sometimes the town’s smaller shops too) for their best groceries and also, in part, to catch the good daily specials found at both shops.

Best place to enjoy in Montagu…

The water: Poortjieskloof Dam: It’s a vast dam situated on a working farm and it’s great for recreational and water-based activities. Definitely a hit among local townsfolk and neighbouring farmers… I personally have many fond childhood memories from Poortjieskloof. (Entry is free, but there are certain visiting hours and apparently, fishing licenses are now available at the gate.)

The mountains/countryside: Almost anywhere in or around Montagu because the town and its surrounding farmlands are protectively enclosed by the majestic, vast Langeberg mountains – but my favourite place for mountain scenery is now the Koo Valley. This fruitful valley is famous for its winter snowfalls, extreme cold (I would know!) and amazing beauty but, to make it even more interesting, it’s essentially a valley on top of mountains, surrounded by even bigger mountains… Oh, and there’s also a local tractor ride at Protea Farm, which is hugely popular and seems like great fun.

The outdoors: Loverswalk… It’s a short, gentle walk along the banks of the Keisie River, below Kanonkop. It leads through to Joubertpark in town, is wonderfully scenic – and perhaps best of all, it’s free for all to enjoy.

 

The food: For coffee and cake, I recommend either Rambling Rose (as good as any eatery I’ve experienced in the Mother City) or Die Boord/The Orchard. For anything else, head to the equally popular Die Kloof Padstal, which is beautiful and child-friendly to boot.

The general vibe or nightlife: I would say the Montagu Park Market on Saturdays for the general, buzzing town vibe. It’s a fun local market with great foods, gifts and crafts, and locals love frequenting it as much as travellers do.

Good coffee/tea/wine: For wine, I would venture to Montagu Wine & Spirits Company or the Capedry Montagu Farmstall (they have a great wine boutique), whereas for coffee, you can’t go wrong with Rambling Rose or Die Kloof Padstal.

Meet locals: Again, for me, it’s the weekly Montagu Park Market.

What makes a city/town special for me

The generous or welcoming people, a sense of well-preserved history and unmarred natural beauty or wildlife… I love combining history with present day life, nature with urbanity and good holiday/road trip memories with kind locals… All of which combine to make a city or town extremely memorable and special because it’s sadly something you don’t often find in the world these days.

My favourite small town in South Africa and why

I am going to be incredibly biased… and say Montagu! It remains in my heart and mind wherever I go and most people who have visited it seem to agree that it’s one special town. Also, it’s found along South Africa’s famous Route 62, so it makes for an epic road trip experience.

If I were to do a 10 day road trip through South Africa, these are the stops I’d make:

I would travel from Montagu via Swellendam and then onto Mossel Bay, George, Wilderness and Knysna, spending a day or two exploring the lush Garden Route region.

From there, I’d travel through the Eastern Cape cities and towns of Port Elizabeth, East London and Butterworth before slowly passing into KwaZulu-Natal and exploring tiny Kokstad, Pietermaritzburg and of course, Durban… I would spend a few days there (in the city of my birth) and then take a slow journey back home to Montagu or Cape Town. Maybe via Bloemfontein and beyond to reach the Cape because that’s also a unique road trip experience. I’ve done both journeys before and loved them, despite their own set of challenges.

The ultimate bush experience anyone can have in SA

It has to be the Kruger (National Park) or the private game reserves, like Sabi Sand or Timbavati, that surround it… I haven’t been to any of these yet but the Kruger is definitely one of the most highly rated bush experiences in the world, with amazing wildlife and accommodation offerings.

The ultimate bush experience anyone can have in Southern Africa ( Zambia, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Botswana, Namibia)

I think in places like Botswana and Namibia, you would want to get out and explore the Namib or Kalahari Deserts. In a country like Mozambique, it’s the beaches and coastline travellers are consistently after, while for Zambia and Zimbabwe, I’d go chasing after waterfalls and lakes because they are blessed with the best in Southern Africa and indeed, in the world.

My best beach/island experience in Southern Africa

Hands down Cape Point’s Dias Beach or Preekstoel beach in the West Coast National Park… both are absolutely gorgeous, with aqua waters and loads of holiday atmosphere. They’re like something straight out of the Greek Isles, just with the noble Cape mountains and fynbos thrown in for good measure. I also really love Jeffreys Bay and Struisbaai, as both are perfect beach towns.

The most magical place in South Africa and why

Cape Point… There’s just something so fierce and beautiful about the whole place. It has so much history and somehow, even with its flocks of daily visitors, it feels uniquely frozen in time.

The best places to visit in South Africa for…

  1. Solo travelers: Grahamstown and Cape Town’s City Bowl and Peninsula-cradling suburbs, like Bantry Bay and Clifton.
  2. Couples: The Cape Winelands, the Cederberg, the Garden Route and Cape Town’s South Peninsula. Otherwise, Mpumalanga’s Panorama Route.
  3. Families: Route 62 small towns, Robertson and Montagu. Beyond that, I definitely recommend the Garden Route, especially Knysna, Wilderness and The Big Tree near Tsitsikamma.
  4. Luxury travellers: In Cape Town, Camps Bay and Clifton because they ooze city chicness and glamour. Beyond that, I would definitely say the Cape Winelands, especially Franschhoek. (Although the wine valley is great for budget travellers too!)
  5. Those seeking off-the-grid spots: Unquestionably the Cederberg or the Cape of Good Hope… even when there are other people around you, at times, those places still feel entirely untouched by humanity. There’s a certain wildness to them that makes them feel like pure (travel) magic.

Content writer by day and travel blogger by night, Tamlyn Ryan passionately runs her travel blog, Tamlyn Amber Wanderlust, from her home base of Cape Town, South Africa. Despite a national diploma in Journalism, in her free time, Tamlyn’s preferred niche remains travel writing. Tamlyn is a hopeless wanderer, equipped with an endless passion for road trips, carefully planned holiday itineraries and, above all else, an innate love for the great outdoors (and cats…). Catch more travel tips and inspiration on her Facebook page.

Lia’s Insider Guide to Johannesburg

Lia Marus, founder of Memoirs of a South African Freelancer, is an editor and writer. Her blog showcases her travels and experiences in life, as well as her thoughts on copywriting and editing – which is what she does for a living. She runs her own content creation agency and spends her days creating articles for clients.  She loves creating new things, and believes this is what defines her.

5 things I love most about Johannesburg

  1. Number one on the list would definitely have to be the people. Johannesburg definitely has the most welcoming and vibrant community of anywhere that I’ve been.
  2. The late afternoon thunderstorms.
  3. The Gautrain – this is the only way that I travel to OR Tambo Airport and Pretoria! I am very excited that it’s being extended!
  4. The African arts and crafts that you can find at the Rosebank Craft Market. I’m in love with African jewellery.
  5. The coffee shop culture. As a freelancer, my office is wherever I want it to be. Very often, I set up my office at one of the stunning coffee shops in my area.

A few quirky/cool/fun things only locals know about

Johannesburg has a great deal of factory shops that many don’t know about – big brand clothing comes to mind. You will find a lot of fantastic deals at these places.

Another great thing to do is to go on walking art tours in Maboneng. On these tours you will be able to interact with the artists in their studios.

Before they start each production, the Joburg City Ballet organises an open day where the choreographers, ballet teachers and company give you a behind-the-scenes glimpse into what was involved in putting the production on.

The least touristy thing to do in Johannesburg

Definitely hanging out in coffee shops!

Best place in Johannesburg to enjoy…

The water: Emmarentia Dam

The mountains/countryside: Magaliesburg

The outdoors: Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens

The food:  So many options! It really depends on what you’re in the mood for:

  • Great sushi that won’t break the bank: Hokkaido in Norwood
  • Italian food: Dolci Café in Craighall Park
  • Mexican: La Rosa in Weltevreden
  • Indian: Red Chilli Spice in Craighall
  • Chinese: It’s a takeaway but the best, by far: Yung Chen

The general vibe or nightlife: Anywhere on Nelson Mandela Square that offers seating on the square. Moyo at Zoo Lake – especially in the evening – has a stunning vibe.

Good coffee/tea/wine: Dolci Café is always on my list!

Meet locals: Dolci Café is always on my list!

What makes a city/town special for me

It must have a heart and soul. The people must be welcoming and it must make me feel at home.

My favourite small town in South Africa and why

I love Bela Bela. The big attraction for me are the hot pools. Going there allows me to melt my stress away.

If I were to do a 10 day road trip through South Africa, these are the stops I’d make:

I would love to explore KwaZulu-Natal and the Eastern Cape. I’m not sure what stops I would make as I don’t know these provinces that well.

The ultimate bush experience anyone can have in SA

Phinda Game Reserve

The ultimate bush experience anyone can have in Southern Africa ( Zambia, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Botswana, Namibia)

I’m not that familiar with bush experiences in Southern Africa. Something that I need to investigate!

My best beach/island experience in Southern Africa

St Lucia, KZN

The most magical place in South Africa and why

The Drakensburg. The mountains have a story to tell and it’s different every time I go there. I love seeing the effect that the change of seasons have on them.

The best places to visit in South Africa for…

  1. Solo travellers: Cape Town – specifically Greenpoint and Sea Point
  2. Couples: Clarens
  3. Families: Sun City, Durban or Cape Town
  4. Luxury travellers: Cape Town has some stunning luxury accommodation as does Magaliesburg.
  5. Those seeking off-the-grid spots: The Karoo and the KZN coast near the Mozambique border.

Lia, founder of Memoirs of a South African Freelancer, is passionate about communicating others’ stories and messages through the written word. She loves creating new things, and this is what defines her. Her creativity can be seen in everything that she does – from her work to her ‘play time’: she loves beading, sewing and coming up with new creations in the kitchen.

 

The Art of Travel on the Blue Train

While you may very well take a flight from Johannesburg to Cape Town, you also have an alternative: travel with class and elegance and treat yourself to a unique experience. Today, our daily life very often resembles a race against the clock: Imagine finally being able to take the time and relive the golden age of luxury train travel. Find the very essence of travel where the art of journeying is as important as the final destination. Plunge into the old-world charm of the legendary Blue Train which is to Southern Africa what the Orient Express is to Europe.

So this is a surprise; your man still doesn’t know anything about this trip. A couple of days’ vacation for the two of you, as the last time was so long ago. It is true that lately, because of your respective workloads, you feel as though you have been living apart from one another.

That day at dawn, a taxi will come to the hotel to pick you up and take you to the station. You enter the beautiful waiting room and only there, he understands. You area about to board the famous Blue Train, to experience this historic train as many heads of state and celebrities have before you. Butlers with white gloves whisk your luggage away before offering you coffee and canapés and impatience is now at its height. Seeing the look of disbelief on his face, you cannot help but smile out of satisfaction: you hit home.

8:30 am – On board

The stationmaster whistles for the train to leave the station. You settle in your private quarters, a suite with all the modern comforts and even a private bathroom with a bathtub. Your butler comes to you and brings you your first drink. You begin to relax and look at the changing landscape behind the panoramic windows, while sinking in your cozy seat.

10:30 am – Breakfast time

It is time for breakfast. You are dazzled by the lifestyle aboard this palace on rails: fresh flowers, refined tableware made of delicate china, silverware and crystal glasses. Fine dining at its best, featuring South African cuisine and wines. Really, it is the perfect place to reconnect, to finally take the time to relax, without obligations… at last. You already consider the 27 hours it will take for the train to cover the 1,600 km journey as a legitimately stolen break from the plain daily life where you have been caught for too long.

The afternoon runs just as perfectly. After a well-deserved nap, high tea is served, and you settle in the lounge car to enjoy a Margarita.

7:30pm – Dinner time

This exclusive trip takes an extra romantic turn at dinner time when, according to tradition, the guests dress up: jacket and tie for men and evening gowns for women. You struggle to remember the last time you two had dinner in such an environment. Your conversation has regained its natural state. Time stands still. The soft music in the dining car mixes with the clear sound of champagne flutes clinking against each other.

When you retreat to your suite, the butler converted what had been a comfortable lounge during the day into an opulent bedroom. You close the door behind him and notice that his suit has kept a bit of the aroma of the Cuban cigar he smoked after dinner. The soft lighting let the intense starlight flood the room. Tomorrow you will cross the mountains and arrive in Cape Town, the mother-city. Tomorrow. Meanwhile you are the only two people in the world.

The Blue Train runs between Cape Town and Pretoria (one way in both directions) and will open a new route to the Kruger National Park this year via Hoedspruit.

 

By Angeline Jaquin